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Khác biệt giữa bản sửa đổi của “Tips tashkalar”
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== High Form Strategy == | == High Form Strategy == | ||
''' | '''1) Hand Management''' | ||
'' | ''Learn the decks and Legendary Beings.'' To play Tash-Kalar well you need to be able to recognize patterns that your opponent is trying to form, and know what's coming up in your own deck that might be useful. | ||
'' | ''Track the cards.'' If you are playing a turn-based game, use the Notes feature of BGA to keep track of both your cards and your opponent's. | ||
'' | ''Anticipate cards in your deck.'' Don't just set up existing patterns in your hand (though do that too!); if you know a useful card is in your deck, try to keep a few pieces on the board that will help you achieve that pattern. It might be the next card you draw. (E.g. if you have the Highland deck, try to maintain a few pieces at the corners of a green square in anticipation of Ritual Master, or a bow-shape for Warlord / Eagle Lord.) | ||
'' | ''Play or discard cards rather than letting them go stale.'' Don't grow too attached to a card unless you're absolutely sure you need to use it soon to accomplish a task. If it's not helping you, get rid of it by summoning it or discarding, even if you can't trigger its effects. The smaller your deck, the more precise your endgame play will be, as you will know with certainty what you will draw; and if you cannot score 9 points, you want to be the person who triggers the endgame by running out of cards. | ||
''' | '''2) Flares''' | ||
'' | ''Be wary of flares.'' Extra actions are extremely valuable in Tash-Kalar--often they are the deciding factor in claiming a task or totally reshaping the board--so don't let your opponent get flares easily. If you are ahead in piece-count, try to stay ahead by a maximum of 2 heroic pieces and 3 pieces in total--this guarantees that only one flare (the 2/5 flare in the deck) is playable. If you must exceed that limit, avoid triggering top and bottom flares at once. (The top number of flares ranges from 2 to 5; the bottom from 4 to 6.) | ||
''' | '''3) Board Management''' | ||
'''Place pieces on or around coloured squares by preference. | ''Keep your piece-count down.'' If a piece of your own is not helping your position and you have a chance to destroy it, do so rather than destroying an enemy piece--this puts you rather than them closer to a flare. If you're ahead in the game and your piece count is high, consider discarding cards or summoning a being on top of your own piece (oversummoning) to avoid placing another piece on the board. | ||
''Keep your pieces together.'' If your position is dispersed, those pieces will add to your piece-count, making it impossible to get a life-saving flare while being useless for summoning or claiming tasks. | |||
''Place pieces on or around coloured squares by preference.'' Even if there's no coloured summoning/conquest task on the board, one will eventually pop up. (Caveat: do not casually leave pieces on red squares if you are playing against Highland and they haven't yet played Blood Shaman.) | |||
''Do not let your opponent set up camp far away from you.'' Make sure you are always able to destroy a piece or two of theirs. | |||
'''4) Tasks''' | |||
''Prioritize 1- and 2-point tasks, not 3-pointers and Legends.'' In particular, Side Chain and Corner Chain are very difficult to achieve without an exorbitant cost. Legends are good but since the 1 point they give is no better than an easily achievable 1-point task, and can be taken away from you, they should not be a major priority unless they help accomplish a task. You need to claim very easy tasks before your opponent does, as they stack up quickly--in particular, never leave End of Legends, Heroic Destruction or Rainbow Domination unclaimed for long, as they are the easiest 2-point tasks to claim. | |||
'''5) Opening Moves''' | |||
In general (though this advice is dependent on your initial draw and the first tasks available), place your first pieces be near the centre but somewhat off-centre, and in the vicinity of coloured squares. This maximizes control of the board, positional flexibility, and ability to engage in direct conflict or move away from it. If your hand is full of 2- and 3-piece patterns, being right next to your opponent's pieces is good, as you will be able to destroy their pieces easily. If it's full of 4- and 5-piece patterns, keep more distance at first. | |||
Phiên bản lúc 22:26, ngày 12 tháng 12 năm 2016
High Form Strategy
1) Hand Management
Learn the decks and Legendary Beings. To play Tash-Kalar well you need to be able to recognize patterns that your opponent is trying to form, and know what's coming up in your own deck that might be useful.
Track the cards. If you are playing a turn-based game, use the Notes feature of BGA to keep track of both your cards and your opponent's.
Anticipate cards in your deck. Don't just set up existing patterns in your hand (though do that too!); if you know a useful card is in your deck, try to keep a few pieces on the board that will help you achieve that pattern. It might be the next card you draw. (E.g. if you have the Highland deck, try to maintain a few pieces at the corners of a green square in anticipation of Ritual Master, or a bow-shape for Warlord / Eagle Lord.)
Play or discard cards rather than letting them go stale. Don't grow too attached to a card unless you're absolutely sure you need to use it soon to accomplish a task. If it's not helping you, get rid of it by summoning it or discarding, even if you can't trigger its effects. The smaller your deck, the more precise your endgame play will be, as you will know with certainty what you will draw; and if you cannot score 9 points, you want to be the person who triggers the endgame by running out of cards.
2) Flares
Be wary of flares. Extra actions are extremely valuable in Tash-Kalar--often they are the deciding factor in claiming a task or totally reshaping the board--so don't let your opponent get flares easily. If you are ahead in piece-count, try to stay ahead by a maximum of 2 heroic pieces and 3 pieces in total--this guarantees that only one flare (the 2/5 flare in the deck) is playable. If you must exceed that limit, avoid triggering top and bottom flares at once. (The top number of flares ranges from 2 to 5; the bottom from 4 to 6.)
3) Board Management
Keep your piece-count down. If a piece of your own is not helping your position and you have a chance to destroy it, do so rather than destroying an enemy piece--this puts you rather than them closer to a flare. If you're ahead in the game and your piece count is high, consider discarding cards or summoning a being on top of your own piece (oversummoning) to avoid placing another piece on the board.
Keep your pieces together. If your position is dispersed, those pieces will add to your piece-count, making it impossible to get a life-saving flare while being useless for summoning or claiming tasks.
Place pieces on or around coloured squares by preference. Even if there's no coloured summoning/conquest task on the board, one will eventually pop up. (Caveat: do not casually leave pieces on red squares if you are playing against Highland and they haven't yet played Blood Shaman.)
Do not let your opponent set up camp far away from you. Make sure you are always able to destroy a piece or two of theirs.
4) Tasks
Prioritize 1- and 2-point tasks, not 3-pointers and Legends. In particular, Side Chain and Corner Chain are very difficult to achieve without an exorbitant cost. Legends are good but since the 1 point they give is no better than an easily achievable 1-point task, and can be taken away from you, they should not be a major priority unless they help accomplish a task. You need to claim very easy tasks before your opponent does, as they stack up quickly--in particular, never leave End of Legends, Heroic Destruction or Rainbow Domination unclaimed for long, as they are the easiest 2-point tasks to claim.
5) Opening Moves
In general (though this advice is dependent on your initial draw and the first tasks available), place your first pieces be near the centre but somewhat off-centre, and in the vicinity of coloured squares. This maximizes control of the board, positional flexibility, and ability to engage in direct conflict or move away from it. If your hand is full of 2- and 3-piece patterns, being right next to your opponent's pieces is good, as you will be able to destroy their pieces easily. If it's full of 4- and 5-piece patterns, keep more distance at first.